Khumbu · Nepal · First summit
Island Peak
6,189 m
Altitude
6,189 m
70 % of Everest’s heightCommitment
AccessibleType of climb
First summit
Region
Khumbu, Nepal
01The route
South-east ridge, headwall and summit ridge
Where most climbers first rope up above six thousand metres. Crampon technique, a fixed-rope headwall, and a final ridge that teaches exposure faster than any course.
02In the record
Where Island Peak sits.
8 peaks
03What it asks
What the mountain asks of a team.
The work behind each ascent reaches far beyond the summit. These are the parts of guiding that matter to me.
Preparation
Technical skills, physical preparation and honest conversations about experience lay the groundwork for the climb.
Time and judgement
Acclimatisation, changing weather and the condition of the team shape each day. Turning around is part of the work.
The team
Guides, climbers and local teams rely on one another. Clear communication and careful decisions help everyone come down together.