
Khumbu · Nepal · First summit
Lobuche East
6,119 m
Altitude
6,119 m
69 % of Everest’s heightCommitment
AccessibleType of climb
First summit
Region
Khumbu, Nepal
01The route
South ridge, glacier approach
The best acclimatisation peak in the Khumbu, and a fine climb in its own right. I use it as a dress rehearsal for everything that happens higher up the valley.
02In the record
Where Lobuche East sits.
8 peaks
03What it asks
What the mountain asks of a team.
The work behind each ascent reaches far beyond the summit. These are the parts of guiding that matter to me.
Preparation
Technical skills, physical preparation and honest conversations about experience lay the groundwork for the climb.
Time and judgement
Acclimatisation, changing weather and the condition of the team shape each day. Turning around is part of the work.
The team
Guides, climbers and local teams rely on one another. Clear communication and careful decisions help everyone come down together.